History & Karl Pfiffner
The route is named after Karl Pfiffner, a young climber who died in an avalanche on La Plata Peak in 1960. According to a friend, Gerry Roach, “[Pfiffner] spoke passionately about his idea of traversing the Continental Divide from Longs Peak to North Arapaho. We discussed the various technical difficulties of staying exactly on the Divide. I believe his original idea was to stay smack on the Divide.” This route, which Buzz Burrell calls the L.A. Freeway, entails extensive technical climbing and interests just a few hardcore endurance climbers.
In 1987 Roach undertook a Pfiffner-inspired non-technical route from Berthoud to Milner Passes. He completed it in 16 days, with several dedicated to climbing peaks, Roach’s primary passion. At the very end of the very last chapter in his definitive guidebook, Colorado’s Indian Peaks: Classic Hikes and Climbs, Roach includes general information about his route, which he named the Pfiffner Traverse in honor of his late friend.
In subsequent years, the popularity and recognition of the Pfiffner Traverse has never matched its potential. Currently, I can find only two online trip reports about the Pfiffner Traverse, by Mark Oveson and Cordis Hall, who are both ultra runners and saw the Pfiffner Traverse more as a Fastest Known Time (FKT) project than as a pinnacle backpacking trip. (I expect these search results to change.)
On a personal level, I had been eyeing a “Colorado Front Range High Route” for years, but had opted to focus on similar projects elsewhere. Finally in 2016 I finished the reconnaissance of segments that I had not completed before. I didn’t learn of the “Pfiffner Traverse” until I purchased Roach’s book, hoping that it would have supplemental route information.
The route that I had been assembling was similar to what Roach did in 1987, with a few differences where he wanted to climb peaks and where weather forced him off the most desirable line. My value-added to this project has really only been the development of a comprehensive guide that perfects the route and that includes bypass routes for inclement weather, “extra credit” routes to increase the technical difficulty, and section-hikes for those who wish to undertake it in smaller pieces.
From the summit of Mt Audobon, looking north towards Longs Peak, May 2003. The Ooh La La Extra Credit Route follows the windswept ridgeline in the lower-left corner of the photo.
In 86 or 87 a couple friends and I made a half assed attempt at going from Berthoud to Grand Lake. My great uncle, who was a serious climber (7th person to climb all 14eeners) said there were parts that would not be possible without ropes. We never made it that far as I twisted my ankle on James Peak, the second guy got out at Devil’s Thumb and the third at Monarch Lake.
Your uncle was sane but ultimately incorrect — a handful of guys have stayed atop the Divide the entire way. Too rich for my blood, but they seem pretty comfortable on the easier 5th class stuff.
He was in his 80s when I asked him about the area. He’d been up Lone Eagle Peak a few times and was likely involved in naming that peak as his brother in law (my grandfather) had been Lindbergh’s ROTC instructor at the U of Wisconsin.
Any chance you know who owned or built the now-fallen log cabin at Crater Lake?
I can check. One of my cousins may be able to get some info on that. There is an outside chance there is something in High Country Names written by my great aunt, Louisa Ward Arps and Ellen Kingery. Elwyn Arps was the serious climber. My great uncle’s wife was a serious historian.