I received my first Fancy Feast stove from Ryan Bozis (aka Major Slacker), who attended one of my presentations in Virginia in Spring 2006. I of course thanked him for it, but given how simple the stove was, I could not imagine that it was better than the stove that I had used for most of my Sea-to-Sea Route hike, a complex double-walled open jet model made from Red Bull cans.
But then I tested it against my original stove and several other designs, and I found that it was the fastest and most fuel efficient of them all. Moreover, it was slightly lighter than the other designs; its simple design meant it involved fewer materials, less time, and hardly any expense; it doubled as its own pot stand, which helped to simplify my whole cook system; and it did not require any pre-heating. I have been using this model since Summer 2006.

Complete stove setup, with windscreen opened to show stove. This particular stove has been used for 300+ meals. The soot on the pot is from open fires, not from the stove.
Key Specs and Advantages
- Weighs just .3 oz (about 10 grams)!
- Costs about $.50 for the cat food can with tax, and $3-$5 for the hole punch.
- It will never clog, and there are no moving or delicate parts that can break. Even if it is accidentally squashed, there is a chance that it can be re-shaped and used again.
- Serves as a pot stand, which means you’ll have one less thing to carry.
- Burns denatured alcohol, a cheap and widely available fuel that can be purchased at hardware stores (in the paint department), gas stations (HEET gas-line antifreeze), and hiking hostels. You can also use Everclear, or grain alcohol, though this is more expensive. Denatured alcohol can be stored in plastic bottles from Platypus or any drink company (e.g. Pepsi).
- Uses about .6 oz of alcohol to boil about 1.5 cups of water, depending on your pot, the starting temperature of the water, and the efficiency of the windscreen. The water will boil within 5-7 minutes.
Disadvantages
- Because the stove is only 2.5 inches in diameter, larger pots may not be stable enough. In this case, it might be better to substitute the Fancy Feast can for a larger can, like a tuna fish can.
- Because this stove is a side-burner, smaller pots (e.g. 600 ml mugs) may not receive enough of the flame. In this case, it’d probably be more efficient to make a top-burner model instead.
- It does not have a simmer feature, i.e. there is no control over the flame output. This will not be a problem if the extent of your backcountry cooking skills is boiling, which is the only thing necessary if you are content (like I am) with meals based around angel hair pasta, couscous, dehydrated and freeze-dried foods, potato flakes, soups, etc.
- There is no OFF switch. The stove will burn until there is no more fuel to burn, unless it is smothered with a pot/mug, dirt, or water. It is extremely difficult, though possible, to blow the stove out.
- It is not as fast as a white gas or canister model. If eating dinner 2-3 minutes earlier is important enough to you that you are willing to carry at least an extra half-pound, by all means… Personally, while I’m waiting for the water to boil, I stretch out, look at tomorrow’s maps and guidebook sections, put together tomorrow’s food, or finish setting up my shelter.
Necessary Supplies
3-oz Fancy Feast cat food can, or another can of the same size. I can usually find the Fancy Feast knock-off brand for $.39 at my local grocery store.
1-hole punch. A standard hole punch is adequate, but an arts & craft model that has a bigger reach is easier to use. With my pole punch I can punch holes 2 inches from the edge of a can or paper sheet, whereas with a standard hole punch I’d be limited to about .75 inches.

Step by Step Directions
1. Remove the cat food and wash out the can.
2. Flatten the sharp edge that was left by the lid with the hole punch (or another hard object, like a butter knife), in order to avoid being cut.

3. Just below the lip of can, make one complete row of hole punches. Avoid breaking the tin between the holes by keeping them far enough apart – about one-eighth of an inch.

4. Below the first layer of hole punches, make another row of holes. The middle of the bottom holes should be directly underneath the 1/8-inch gaps between the upper holes.

5. Make a windscreen, following another one of my articles. A windscreen MUST be used with this stove. Otherwise you will struggle to get a boil, especially in windy conditions.
Operating Instructions
This stove is extremely easy to use. Pour denatured alcohol into the stove, light the alcohol with a match, wait 20-30 seconds for the fuel to warm up, and then put your pot on top of the stove.
I typically boil slightly less water than my meal actually requires but optimum consistency/texture. Once the food has absorbed all of the water I boiled, I then add non-boiled water until the correct consistency is achieved. This has a few advantages: I use less fuel, I never end up with “couscous soup,” and I do not have to wait for my dinner to cool because the non-boiled water cools it down enough to eat right away.

Variations
The 3-oz Fancy Feast stove is ideal for a 1-person cook system with a ~1-liter-ish pot. Personally, I use a .9-liter Evernew titanium pot, which has a 5-inch diameter bottom. If you plan to use a larger pot, and you are concerned about the pot being unstable on the 2.5-inch diameter Fancy Feast can, you can follow the same instructions as above but substitute the Fancy Feast can for a larger can, like a tuna fish can.
I have never done tests to prove it, but it’s reasonable to think that the number of hole punches affect the heat output and the fuel efficiency of the stove. With more holes, the stove probably burns hotter and less efficient. With fewer holes, the stove probably burns less hot but more efficient. The optimum number of holes is probably a function of the pot (its material, thickness, and shape), the quantity and starting temperature of water being boiled, and the performance of the windscreen…in other words, too many other variables to make this sort of testing worthwhile.
The Ultimate Hiker’s Gear Guide: Tools & Techniques to Hit the Trail 



This is just plain damn cool. I own a MSR Reactor which is a great cooking system but it weighs a ton by comparasion and I only ever use it to boil water. I’ve ordered your book and look forward to reading your ideas and opinions on gear.
This is a great tutorial!!!
Skurka, you evil genius.
Someone tell me again why we’ve spent hundreds of dollars for backpacking stoves.
Very Cool – Just got a Trangia for car camping – but will make one of these for backpacking – thanks.
Great Cat stove. I have used one for years and also made one out of a Potted Meat can.
I’ve also lined my Cat stove with fiberglass wick that I got from a hardware store for under 2 dollars. this seems to increase the boil time and keeps the fuel from sloshing around.
Awesome concept. Thanks for posting it. This makes all the complicated $100 super lightweight stoves look silly by comparison. Can’t wait to build it.
One question. I noticed the pattern of the holes of the stove in use in the field (the first photo) is different than the one you make in the video. Is there a reason for the difference?
I have not tested the performance of stoves with more holes versus less. Probably more holes gets hotter, and fewer holes is more efficient. But not sure it matters.
I am reading your book now. When I got to the part about the fancy feast stove I googled it and got here. I think I will try using this stove with the cup/pot of my Jetboil Sol Ti.
The Golite “Jam” is on the cover of your book. As you discuss items in your book you often give “Skurka’s Picks”. You did not go into light weight packs. Have you used the Jam? Do you have a one or two sentence evaluation on it or Golight products in general?
I believe I discuss the Jam in the Skurka’s Picks section in the chapter on backpacks. It has been my go-to thru-hiking pack since it first came out in 2003.
Very cool , hope to get more tips from your book. Thank you.
I’m making one right now and i’m finding it impossible to penetrate the can with the hole punch. The best I’ve been able to do so far is to score the can with the hole punch and finish it off with needle-nosed pliers. What am I doing wrong? It’s taken 20 minutes to do 3 holes!
Wouldn’t ya know it…as soon as I posted that, the holes started coming. Looking forward to your workshop in Boulder next week.
Hey Andrew-
I’ve been using the FancyFeast for a few months and love it. I actually did a bit of fiddeling with an energy drink can (VUKA, they’re sold in the Denver area) and by inverting the aluminum top of the can inside of the bottom, and by punching holes, have been able to get a pretty efficient design.
Any opinions on JetBoils, or comparable “all in one boil systems” I’m doing a thru hike of the CT this summer and am not sure if the weight of Denatured Alcohol / HEET, will be that much better then just carrying a can of compresed gas.
When I have calculated the weight of stove systems over time, it takes a very long time (i.e. several weeks of having one meal per day) for the efficiency of non-alcohol stoves to offset their higher original weight. Of course, weight is not the only benefit of an alcohol stove — the fuel is also much cheaper and more widely available. If it’s of any value, I carried my alcohol stove across the Yukon Arctic and Brooks Range, when resupply points were often two weeks in between. If I was nervous about how much fuel I had versus how many more days I had to go, I cooked over a fire, which had the added benefit of warmth and comfort.
Really good but not very stable. Have you come across any ‘hacks’ to improve this. Currently thinking if fashioning something out of a wire coathanger!?