During a flight tour in April, the National Park Service discovered that a critical bridge over the South Fork of the San Joaquin had been damaged. For photos, refer to the PCTA website.
This bridge is in the northwestern corner of Sequoia-Kings Canyon National Park, just south of the boundary with Sierra National Forest, and it’s critical to hikers on the Pacific Crest Trail and John Muir Trail (which overlap in this section). Hikers have three options now:
- Use the bridge, which is clearly damaged;
- Ford the South Fork, which will be impassable for most or all of 2023; or,
- Detour around the bridge, using one of many on- and off-trail routes.
Let’s look at each option more closely.
1. Use the bridge
Since the news originally broke, I’ve not seen further updates on the condition of the bridge. In the photos, which were taken from a helicopter, it appears somewhat intact, so maybe it’s still usable if your DNA is more akin to a monkey than a horse.
Planning to use the bridge seems like a risky option though:
- It could be washed out by higher water levels;
- NPS may remove it before or during the season;
- NPS could position a ranger there, issuing warnings and/or fines; and,
- If you slipped off, it could be fatal and you’d not receive much sympathy.
It’s worth pointing out that relevant organizations (NPS, PCTA, JMT Wilderness Conservancy) are universally encouraging hikers to plan alternate routes to avoid the bridge.
Don’t expect this bridge to be replaced in 2023. The replacement process will likely entail extensive engineering, installation team logistics, and a wilderness study.
2. Fording the South Fork
This will be a dumb idea for most of the 2023 season. But you might be able to get across it:
- During colder weather in May, when the snowpack is still melting solid at night; or,
- After early-September, when there will be less run-off and near-freezing nighttime lows.
- In both cases, cross in the morning, when water levels will be lowest.
At the location of this bridge, the South Fork contains run-off from its starting watershed (framed in by the Le Conte Divide, the Goddard Divide, and an unnamed ridge that divides the South Fork and Evolution Creek) as well as Evolution Creek, which is only slightly smaller than the South Fork where they merge. The river drops about 125 vertical feet per mile through this section, with no apparent areas where it slows down, like meanders through a wide-bottomed meadow.
I’ve crossed Evolution Creek twice after wet winters (late-June 2006 and mid-August 2011), both times at Evolution Meadow, which is significantly safer (i.e. slow-moving, though perhaps deeper) than the trail’s official crossing point about a half-mile further downcanyon. In 2006 it was naval-deep; in 2011 it was knee-deep. Now, imagine crossing a river that’s twice the volume and moving swiftly.
3. Detour
I’ve updated the High Sierra creek hazards resource with five potential alternates. These have been discussed elsewhere too (like here, here, and here, plus guidebook’s like Secor’s The High Sierra and Roper’s Sierra High Route), if you’re looking for more information than I will provide.
A. Bishop-Piute Pass
This all-trail route leaves the JMT in LeConte Canyon and rejoins it at the confluence of Piute Creek and the South Fork, a few miles downstream of the bridge. You’ll miss Muir Pass and Evolution Basin, two JMT highlights; but it has Dusy Basin and Piute Pass, which are very cool. Also, you can catch a ride to nearby Bishop for resupply and a shower.
I’m uncertain how Inyo National Forest will feel about this detour. Currently, USFS allows 36 and 30 hikers each day to depart for Bishop Pass and Piute Pass, respectively. Will hikers need one of these trailhead permits, or will their original permit be satisfactory, especially under these extenuating circumstances? I don’t know.
Update (May 24): Per the PCTA, the PCT long-distance hikers permit is valid for this reroute. Hikers with more local permits (e.g. like from Sequoia-Kings or Yosemite) technically need a new entry permit.
B. Hell for Sure Pass
This option allows hikers to experience most of official JMT/PCT, missing as little as two miles of it. It’s entirely on-trail (unless the shorter variant is used, which has some off-trail), and it passes directly by Muir Trail Ranch, a popular JMT resupply point.
Like the Bishop-Piute option, I’m uncertain how Sierra National Forest will handle wilderness permits. The Florence Lake trailhead is limited to 35 hikers per day (21 reservable, 14 walk-up).
Update (May 24): This is not the “official” PCT reroute, so the PCT long-distance hikers permit is not honored. Following the same logic as the Bishop-Piute alternate, all hikers will need a new entry permit after exiting here.
This alternate has one major negative: it’s the least efficient, adding 32 miles to bypass only two. The alternate itself does not appear to be very aesthetic, too, though this is partly offset by following the JMT over Muir Pass and through Evolution Valley.
To shorten the distance, those with some off-trail skills can take a shortcut, from Wanda Lake to Goddard Canyon, passing by Davis Lake. This route looks straightforward except for the section between the Davis Lake outlet and Goddard Canyon: steep-sided gullies must be avoided, and the South Fork must be crossed to reach the trail on the west side.
C. Over the top
This off-trail route is untested, but it looks good on satellite and it’s very direct. Also, it will melt out early because it’s south-facing.
Don’t expect it to be straightforward though, as it:
- Involves side-hilling across steep slabs,
- Cuts across multiple small drainages, and,
- Passes above and below steeper terrain that could be problematic if you get off-route.
It departs the JMT at the Evolution Creek crossing and rejoins the JMT on the northeast side of the South Fork.
D. Alpine Col
This is a well established off-trail pass, but I’ve not personally been on it. It’s described as Class 2 by Secor and by High Sierra Topix. Based on photos, this rating looks accurate.
The north side of Alpine Col will remain snow-covered for most or all of 2023, based on satellite imagery from past wet winters like 2016-17 and 2018-19. Traction will probably be helpful, and possibly required if the snow is firm. An ice axe might be desired by those uncomfortable on steeper snow.
E. Snow Tongue Pass
This is expert-level, loose Class 3, on the north side. It’s not difficult to reach the pass from the south, but the north side is STEEP (about 45 degrees) and will be entirely snow-covered for most or all of 2023. Axe and crampons, and the knowledge to use them, full stop.
We were one of the first groups of PCT hikers that left Kennedy Meadows Aouthon May 5th and planned a resupply in Bishop due to this bridge being unusable. For us the most logical detour hence was Bishop Pass and Piute Pass. However, we did not connect them as you show on the map as we had to go to Bishop. We went back to the trail from Aspendell. Bishop pass is very beautiful and not hard at all. Piute is very easy as well. Everything was still snow covered, only the last 0.5 miles had some patches of dry trail in Piute canyon, reconnecting with the PCT. The last miles of descent in Piute canyon were tricky as the trail is carved in rock faces and when it is covered in steep snow you can’t see it and have to navigate the rock face. Also, snow close to rocks equals deep postholing. By now though, these last miles are probably getting snow free and will be easy. I still think it is the best option for most PCT hikers.
We tried going back on the PCT after rejoining it to check out the bridge. Unfortunately snow slowed us down and a thunderstorm started rolling in. We wanted to set up camp further north to set us up for an early crossing of the next pass, so we turned around about 1.5 miles from the bridge.
Thanks for the report. Stay safe.
Andrew, do you have any idea if a gpx track is available for this over the top route from Mcclure to aspen meadow?
I don’t know if a hiker has done this route. If one has, and if one sent me a GPX file of their route, I wouldn’t share it anyway — I don’t think that GPX files of “routes” should be public, as a safety/risk concern.
alright. im not sure how a gpx file of a route that has actually been hiked by someone is more of a safety risk than you vaguely describing the route on your website and discussing it on a live stream but…ok.
Any thoughts on rerouting over Lamarck Col instead of Bishop Pass, then reconnecting with Piute Pass?
I successfully led a group of 7 through your suggested high route. Your preface was spot on! Lots of traversing around very steep slabs. We exited down a drainage just before the steep slope that is more close to the suggested line. At one point it seemed to cliff out, but there was a very straightforward way down if you persevere. I wouldn’t recommend this route to anyone without solid navigational experience.
When you say high route, are you referring to option C?
Also, can you reach out to [email protected] and we can swap emails? I’m interested to learn more about your path.
Yes we took option C! I’ll shoot you an email.
Junior – Were you northbound? Can you please share more details about your traverse? I’m hoping to try this route (going southbound) in a few weeks, and would love to know more about your experience. If you’re able to share suggestions, images, or terrain descriptions, it would be very much appreciated!
Hi. I was the McClure ranger for many years and that Option C route obviously works though, as Junior says, is a thrash and you really want good route finding skills. Years ago, I was pretty sure there was even an old trail up there. I started it just above the north side of the bridge, but quickly lost it. It makes sense because the sheep & cattle herders would have wanted a way up there when the bridge was out. During WWII they also kept horses in those upper bench meadows.
A variation, though I’m not sure it wouldn’t take more thrashing & energy, is to leave the trail at the Darwin Canyon use-trail cutoff, stay high on the bench to 11,110 (11,106?), keep traversing and drop to that saddle you have on the map. The traverse from Darwin Creek is pretty easy and even has an old use trail in places.
Still, for JMT/PCT folks, I think you’re really better off going out at Bishop P and coming in Piute. Lamark, for instance, takes you out on the wrong trail to get to Piute; Snowtongue is a major thrash and even dangerous; and Alpine Col is kinda sorta ok — takes you right out at Piute Pass — but has some huge boulders at the bottom. Covered by snow, they’d be dangerous to drop into… . Oh, Hell For Sure is nice but the other USFS side is a maze of cow trails — really hard to find your way on the real trails. Not maintained much, if at all.
Oh, again. DO NOT FORD THE SOUTH FORK. It won’t be crossable until September, if then, and down by that middle bridge, there’s just no good places to ford at all.
So I took option C this last few days going west to east. Unfortunately I did not take the descent because my hiking partner wasn’t feeling well. Don’t just rely on the route bearings provided and contour shading on the different map programs. There is a very nice and natural class 2 switchback that leads up from the west side. When ascending from the plateau, the switchback will be to the east of the bearing line. My best advice in the side hilling is to ascend if the terrain is getting too angled and risky. Finding the best path will involve having to scout and approach drops to see if there is land below. Some will have a class 2 stepdown where others could be class 3 to 4. I only ever did 2 since I didn’t have better equipment. As of this posting date, the mountain has a lot slick and polished granite areas with a many streams and waterfalls. I would allot at least 4 hours to get through this section.
Party of 4 – went over the top 7/18/2023 3-6PM.
Glad to hear. NOBO or SOBO? Any additional details you care to share?
Hello! I am planning a SOBO JMT this summer (starting 7/7) and wondering if you know what the status of this bridge is?
I don’t keep tabs on every SEKI news release and I don’t have a direct contact with SEKI rangers/trail crew, so I’m not entirely sure. But I think I would have heard something if the bridge had been replaced or if there were inevitable plans. Also, they’re still dealing with road damage (like to Mineral King and Road’s End), and those projects will probably get attention and funding before a wilderness bridge (if they’re not on separate tracks). Bottom line: I think it’s best to assume that the bridge has not been replaced and will not be replaced in early-2024.
Hey Aaron. From what I’ve read on the PCT reddit pade, PCTA, and FB groups, it sounds like rebuild may start sometime this summer, depending on snowpack, hopes to be finished by 2025. Therefore it won’t be available this year. JMT will be amazing. I’d recommend joining the PCT Facebook groups and Reddit page for up to date information as PCTers go through. I start late April and currently planning on Over the top. Or as the JMT link below this post calls it “McClure Meadow to the damaged bridge via south side Glacier Divide.” Evolution Valley is breathtaking and not to be missed if possible. Just be safe and know limitations. Strength in numbers.
https://jmtwilderness.org/2023-bridge-collapse-alternate-routes/
Does anyone have .gpx for this?
I’m doing the JMT this summer and starting to plan logistics, and happily the JMT Wilderness Conservancy appears to have quasi-blessed option C:
“McClure Meadow to the damaged bridge via south side Glacier Divide”
https://jmtwilderness.org/2023-bridge-collapse-alternate-routes/
Hi Ben, two partners and I are also planning a JMT NOBO trip starting 7/20 at Cathedral Pass. I checked the link you added and the page is not found. We did find an update from the JMT Wilderness Conservancy dated 2/20. They describe Bishop & Piute and Hell for Sure and downplay the various Class 2 and Class 3 options. In reading reports from various folks, I get the impression that Bishop & Piute is the better alternative, albeit at the expense of some prime JMT terrain. Thoughts?
Update as of March 29, 2024. I called Inyo NF today and was advised that JMT thru hikers will be allowed to use the Piute-Bishop Trails alternate this summer without jeopardizing their permit, even if they spend the night in Bishop to rest/resupply. The ranger also indicated it might be possible to use the new bridge by late summer even if it’s not 100% completed. I’m not sure a new bridge could be even substantially completed that quickly, but it’s great to hear that the Forest Service will allow people to use the Piute–Bishop alternative.
I did the Over the Top route and it went well with only Class II scrambling. It is approachable for a hiker experienced with scrambling, off trail navigation, route finding experience, and a good GPS app. Pictures and my route compared to the baseline route are on my blog at https://yetihikes.net/wordpress/2024/05/28/pacific-crest-trail-day-64-scramble/
Just wanted to say thanks for the Option C – Over the Top guidance Andrew. Multiple parties on the PCT this season have been successfully navigating their way through that route (myself included) heading NOBO. Was a relatively straightforward and very enjoyable side quest and definitely safer than fording the river.
Only note on the original unproven GPX would be that I’d suggest traversing at a slightly lower elevation side to avoid the stream/cascade at the start of the steep descent. Otherwise the route as you theorised (any many have since proven) is basically perfect.
What about the Lamarck Col Trail that connects to the Piute Pass Trail? I saw that someone else posted this question but I didn’t see a reply. The reply I saw concerning this trail was that it takes you out on the wrong trail to Piute. Not sure what that means. The onX Backcountry app seems to have a clear trail and even a loop that some folks do starting from North Lake. Is this a viable option or is there something about the trail that is concerning?
Thanks for your help!
I am NOBO on the JMT due to arrive at the San Joaquin bridge that is out around Aug 11, 2024. Could we possibly cross Evolution Creek somewhere above where it joins the San Joaquin River in the flats below the switchbacks coming down from Evolution Valley? Then stay on the right (NE) side of the San Joaquin River going downstream traversing the slope above and along the river re-joining the trail after it crosses the bridge that is gone? On Google Earth it looks like a traversable talus slope. As no one has mentioned this, perhaps it is not possible.
This is such great information. Thanks for all the hard work. Do you have a list of crossings for Sonora Pass to Echo Pass on the PCT by chance? Thank you.
That section has far fewer, maybe no, crossing hazards because the PCT stays closer to the headwaters, before the creeks have a chance to gain serious volume.