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The day began at Boulders Beach, one of the classic tourist stops that I normally would avoid and would encourage others to do the same—I overwhelming prefer authentic, impromptu experiences, not mass-produced ones. However, Boulders Beach is an exception—nearly everybody who visits Cape Town visits the beach, and I’d recommend you do as well. Located…

Based largely on the fact that there is a Trails Illustrated map for the city of Cape Town and Table Mountain Park, I had been looking forward to this leg of the trip since I first arrived in South Africa. Unfortunately the weather today has been awful—“On a clear day, Table Mountain would be right…

I finished up the Otter Trail this morning at the beautiful Nature’s Valley, where that sought-after long stroll on a sandy beach awaited me. Adél picked me up and we returned to the The Plettenberg, yet another high-end luxury hotel, for another superb breakfast, this time more deserved. I was very happy that one of…

This morning it was difficult to leave the small National Park cabin I stayed in last night. It was perched 20 feet from the ocean, on a rocky bluff, and all night long I could hear the pounding surf outside. But there was a good reason to get going: for the next 1.5 days I’m…

 There were no strenuous activities on the schedule today, but I felt compelled anyway to gorge on breakfast at the Pezula Resort Hotel, a top-of-the-top-end place located on the Eastern Head of Knysna, from where there are views of both the Knysna Lagoon and the Indian Ocean. Pezula features beautiful condo-like rooms (decorated with a…

Before my mid-day flight I took a long run along the beach that climaxed with a swim in the Indian Ocean—Why not, right? I’m starting to feel much more comfortable traveling alone in South Africa—it’s not as if locals stop to cheer me on or give me water, but no one has bothered me either,…

The sunrise from Twins Cave was impressive—pink-hued light lit up the escarpment wall to begin the day. I packed up quickly and began to descend, slightly concerned about making an 11am shuttle that would take me back to Durban. (Actually, I was concerned with making the shuttle after a shower, which I desperately needed.) The…

Drakensberg Last night over dinner I planned today’s outing, with help from Craig, the General Manager of Cathedral Peak Hotel who has been hiking in the ‘Berg for at least 20 years. He highly recommended that I stay out overnight and camp at Twins Cave, one of many caves in the area that is popular…

The breakfast buffet spread at the Cathedral Peak Hotel was a perfect pre-day-hike meal: eggs, sausage, home fries and hash browns, yogurt and granola, and a better selection of fresh fruit than you’ll find at a Whole Foods: kiwi, guava, mango, pineapple, honeydew melon, apricots, litchi, etc.—I found myself passing over the grapes, bananas, and…

The combination of warm shark-infested waters and throngs of scantily clad beach-goers prompted the installation of shark nets off the coastline in the 1940’s. A tour of the nets is available, but that aspect of the boat ride is its least redeeming—instead, it’s enjoyable for its views of an orange sun rising above the Indian…